Deaf Dogs and Coyote Season Safety

Picture by Pixabay

The following information has been obtained from The Source, by staff writer Ben Rayner, on February 3, 2022.

In the latest edition of The Source, I read the article in which the Connecticut State Department of Energy and Environmental Protection Agency (DEEP) is reaching out to the community in an effort to educate residents about coyote behavior during these last couple months of winter. My interest was peaked because we live on a four-acre parcel with a variety of beautiful wildlife, including coyotes. My attention was also grabbed because we have a sweet senior pup who weighs in less than twenty pounds and a deaf dog who is roughly 38 pounds. Are there things that I need to know and do in order to protect my precious, four-legged family members?

According to Rayner, DEEP wants to increase awareness about coyote behavior and activity. Because there will be evident increased human interaction, this awareness is crucial and definitely needs to be heightened.

For one, the mating season takes place until sometime around the end of March. Male coyotes can become more aggressive and pose an additional threat to any and all pets. DEEP offers solid advice and actions that all of us are able to take and keep our precious, and often defenseless, pets safe.

TIPS:

1. Keep pets from running free.

   Cats need to be kept inside, especially at night. Dogs need to be kept on a leash and/or under close supervision at all times.

   This safeguard is critically important for our deaf or any physically challenged animal in our care. Without being able to hear an approaching coyote, our deaf dogs become endangered more easily, and the possibility of being attacked increases.

2. Avoid attracting or drawing coyotes into our yards. Never feed any animals, keep areas clean from birdseed, secure trash cans and compost piles, and clean up fallen fruit or vegetables.

3. Install kennels or coyote-proof fencing when possible. Remember, while it might seem obvious, invisible fences do NOT keep coyotes from entering our yards.

4. Use leashes at all times when walking our dogs so we can be in control if encountered by a coyote. Never turn your back to or run from a coyote.

   Hikes or casual walks are so much fun when our pups are off leash and exploring the woods or area around us. However, our deaf dogs would never receive our command or cues to change course if they were off-leash. Keep them safe.

5. Remain calm if you cross paths with a coyote.

6. Remember that a male coyote can be extremely territorial and aggressive.

7. Attempt to frighten coyotes away by making loud noises and acting aggressively towards them. Be BIG. Coyotes are confident but aren’t prone to wanting to interact with humans.

8. Report unusual behavior or any coyotes showing symptoms of rabies such as seizures, salivating, extreme lethargy, or staggering. Remember that daytime coyote activity is NOT uncommon and does not necessarily indicate rabies.

9. Remove any areas that could make possible dens. Animal proof around and under any type of building on your property. Fill in crevices and remove hollowed-out trees.

10. Keep in mind that it is highly unlikely that a coyote will mate with a domestic dog. Coydogs are rarer than often thought.

Coyote pups. Picture from Pixabay.

Becoming overly worried or frightened about coyote presence or activity isn’t necessary. Prudent behavior and being vigilant in taking these steps create safe coexistence with our beautiful wildlife. We can live with God’s wonderful creatures, enjoy being comfortable in our surroundings, and know that we are doing everything possible to keep our deaf dogs and pets safe.

Hogan's Hope for a Safe Puppy Home - Part 1

I have had the wonderful life of working with and training dogs since I was nine years of age. My father brought home our first family pup who we named Victoria. Of course, we called her Vicky for short. She was a devoted pup from the get-go, and my father believed that a good dog was a well-mannered dog. To this end, he began her training as soon as she came into our home and taught me everything that he knew. And…he knew a great deal.

Vicky learned fast and easily because of her high level of intelligence and intense desire to please. She loved us with all her heart and dedicated herself to our protection. I could tell you several stories where she quite literally saved the day, but that’s for another time. Well, okay. So not to keep you hanging, she relentlessly dragged my mother by the arm out of the basement where Mama was doing the family laundry. There was an electrical fire that started in the wall on the first floor. If it weren’t for Vicky, my sister and I would have been trapped on the second floor. The firefighters gave Vicky all the credit for saving the family. This is only one of several times that our beautiful girl protected and saved her beloved family.

The days before bringing Vicky home were filled with excitement and preparations for our new, four-legged furry family member.

Part 1: Puppy Proofing the House

1. Secure cabinet doors so noses and paws can’t open them.

2. Relocate all dangerous items such as cleaning solutions and powders, sponges, hair products, onto higher, out-of-reach shelves.

3. Replace trash cans with tight-fitting lids. Garbage can be extremely dangerous with the bones, plastic wraps, aluminum foil, sharp edges created by chewing on plastic containers. Intestines can be perforated or blocked with life-threatening emergencies.

4. Place clothes hampers in strategic locations. All dirty socks, underwear, and odorous clothing must be kept completely out of reach. Puppies love us and any item that has a strong scent of us is appealing to them.

5. Designate a safe place for shoes. Shoes are a great chew toy for our puppies, especially since our feet smell delightful to them. Think about creating a safe, special shelf just inside the back door for shoes to be placed as soon as you come in the house. Remember to keep closet doors closed tightly.

6. Make a safe place for your puppy to sleep. Puppies need a bed of their own to sleep and feel secure. The bed and possibly a crate do not need to be overly large. It only needs to be large enough for your pup to stand and turn around. Purchase a crate that is the size needed when full-grown. Use dividers to make the interior smaller and gradually increase the area as your puppy grows. This gives the feeling of security, like a den. It also keeps your pup safe when you need to leave the house for limited amounts of time. He or she won’t be able to run throughout the house and get into trouble by chewing on wires, cushions, or other things. Since dogs don’t like going potty in their beds, it will help with housebreaking. Do remember to take your pup outside immediately upon arriving home and/or taking him or her out of the crate.

7. Designate a safe play area. Some folks like obtaining Xpens (exercise pens that are usually collapsible) that are like a playpen for toddlers. It keeps your puppy safe while you’re busy with things around the house. But don’t overly confine your puppy; our “children” are members of our families who want and need to be included and part of our ongoing activities.

8. Choose a high-quality food. Quality and price are not necessarily in the same equation. Talk with your veterinarian and select the highest quality that you are able to afford. Remember to never underfeed your growing puppy, and feed him or her at least three (3) times a day. Feed until satisfied. I also recommend that food not be left down so they can graze. You want your pup to be happy and healthy as well as eager to receive a reward during training.

9. Obtain food and water bowls that are non-slip, stainless steel or lead-free stoneware or ceramic. Bowls need to be easily cleaned as well as sanitized! Wash food bowls thoroughly after every meal to eliminate bacteria, and wash water bowls and fill with fresh water often.

10. Buy durable and appropriate collar, harness, and leash. Different sized dogs need different collars and/or harnesses. For instance, a very small dog is better outfitted with a harness for attaching a leash than a collar. A collar can also be used but function more as decorative attire and for ID tags. Harnesses with a back clip used on larger dogs tend to promote pulling, but no-pull harnesses are now available that are working wonderfully. If you use a collar, I recommend a Martingale collar. It tightens enough so your pup can’t back out of the collar which is a great and very important safety feature. Yet, it doesn’t choke. Please remember that over time, choke collars damage the esophagus! [Note: Proper training techniques eliminate the need for choke collars.] Make certain that the clip is strong and sturdy and won’t break or open.

11. Get a seat belt. This is non-negotiable! It’s extremely tempting to say or think that we’ll hold our puppy. NO! It’s very simple to attach a seat belt strap to a dog’s harness and then to the seat belt in our back seat. Sudden stops, hard braking, or minor bumps throw our pups and seriously injure them while the humans are safely belted. No one can hold a pup in an accident. Please do not fool yourself or allow anyone to convince you otherwise. Too often, Police officers have witnessed an accident or incident where the humans are fine but the animal suffers great injury. Slamming against a seat can be fatal. Belting a pup only takes a moment. And…the pup can still sit in someone’s lap if that’s the issue. Additionally, air bags kill dogs of all sizes in the front seat.

12. Order identification tags or have the collar embroidered with your pup’s name and your cell phone number. The embroidered collar eliminates the possibility of tags getting ripped off and keeps your vital information on your pup. [Note: Talk to your veterinarian about having your pup chipped for permanent identification.]

13. Pick up your children’s toys and make a safe toy box. Puppies love to chew, and destroyed toys not only upset children (and parents) but pose real dangers for pups. Perforated bowels and blockages are life-threatening.

14. Purchase safe play and chew toys. Like our little children, puppies are inquisitive, adventurous, and investigative. Everything is fun, and they like to experience all types of sounds, places, textures, and shapes. Everything also goes into their mouths! Hard rubber toys of all sizes and shapes are wonderful. I suggest KONG and Yapple toys. The ones with a hole can be slathered with a small bit of wholesome peanut butter or cheese. Stuffed toys are a favorite of dogs BUT must be monitored very carefully. Let your pup play with them only when you can supervise them. Monitor to make sure that the stuffing can’t be ingested and cause intestinal blockages or irritations. Put these toys away when you are not with your pup. Safe items are available that simulate heartbeat and warmth and can be used during the transition away from littermates. The adjustment can be distressing, and these are reported to help in some situations. (I have another admission - I always allowed my pups to sleep with us at night. By tethering them to me, their movement alerts me, and I take them outside. I keep them tethered to me until I am sure they were potty trained.)

15. Think about housebreaking before your puppy comes home. Rules of thumb: 1) A puppy can only hold their bladder for the number of hours equally their age in months. A two-month-old puppy can only wait two hours at the most - it can be shorter. 2) Take your puppy out 10-20 minutes after eating.

    Next Blog - Part 2: Puppy Arrives Home