Hogan's Hope for a Safe Puppy Home - Part 1

I have had the wonderful life of working with and training dogs since I was nine years of age. My father brought home our first family pup who we named Victoria. Of course, we called her Vicky for short. She was a devoted pup from the get-go, and my father believed that a good dog was a well-mannered dog. To this end, he began her training as soon as she came into our home and taught me everything that he knew. And…he knew a great deal.

Vicky learned fast and easily because of her high level of intelligence and intense desire to please. She loved us with all her heart and dedicated herself to our protection. I could tell you several stories where she quite literally saved the day, but that’s for another time. Well, okay. So not to keep you hanging, she relentlessly dragged my mother by the arm out of the basement where Mama was doing the family laundry. There was an electrical fire that started in the wall on the first floor. If it weren’t for Vicky, my sister and I would have been trapped on the second floor. The firefighters gave Vicky all the credit for saving the family. This is only one of several times that our beautiful girl protected and saved her beloved family.

The days before bringing Vicky home were filled with excitement and preparations for our new, four-legged furry family member.

Part 1: Puppy Proofing the House

1. Secure cabinet doors so noses and paws can’t open them.

2. Relocate all dangerous items such as cleaning solutions and powders, sponges, hair products, onto higher, out-of-reach shelves.

3. Replace trash cans with tight-fitting lids. Garbage can be extremely dangerous with the bones, plastic wraps, aluminum foil, sharp edges created by chewing on plastic containers. Intestines can be perforated or blocked with life-threatening emergencies.

4. Place clothes hampers in strategic locations. All dirty socks, underwear, and odorous clothing must be kept completely out of reach. Puppies love us and any item that has a strong scent of us is appealing to them.

5. Designate a safe place for shoes. Shoes are a great chew toy for our puppies, especially since our feet smell delightful to them. Think about creating a safe, special shelf just inside the back door for shoes to be placed as soon as you come in the house. Remember to keep closet doors closed tightly.

6. Make a safe place for your puppy to sleep. Puppies need a bed of their own to sleep and feel secure. The bed and possibly a crate do not need to be overly large. It only needs to be large enough for your pup to stand and turn around. Purchase a crate that is the size needed when full-grown. Use dividers to make the interior smaller and gradually increase the area as your puppy grows. This gives the feeling of security, like a den. It also keeps your pup safe when you need to leave the house for limited amounts of time. He or she won’t be able to run throughout the house and get into trouble by chewing on wires, cushions, or other things. Since dogs don’t like going potty in their beds, it will help with housebreaking. Do remember to take your pup outside immediately upon arriving home and/or taking him or her out of the crate.

7. Designate a safe play area. Some folks like obtaining Xpens (exercise pens that are usually collapsible) that are like a playpen for toddlers. It keeps your puppy safe while you’re busy with things around the house. But don’t overly confine your puppy; our “children” are members of our families who want and need to be included and part of our ongoing activities.

8. Choose a high-quality food. Quality and price are not necessarily in the same equation. Talk with your veterinarian and select the highest quality that you are able to afford. Remember to never underfeed your growing puppy, and feed him or her at least three (3) times a day. Feed until satisfied. I also recommend that food not be left down so they can graze. You want your pup to be happy and healthy as well as eager to receive a reward during training.

9. Obtain food and water bowls that are non-slip, stainless steel or lead-free stoneware or ceramic. Bowls need to be easily cleaned as well as sanitized! Wash food bowls thoroughly after every meal to eliminate bacteria, and wash water bowls and fill with fresh water often.

10. Buy durable and appropriate collar, harness, and leash. Different sized dogs need different collars and/or harnesses. For instance, a very small dog is better outfitted with a harness for attaching a leash than a collar. A collar can also be used but function more as decorative attire and for ID tags. Harnesses with a back clip used on larger dogs tend to promote pulling, but no-pull harnesses are now available that are working wonderfully. If you use a collar, I recommend a Martingale collar. It tightens enough so your pup can’t back out of the collar which is a great and very important safety feature. Yet, it doesn’t choke. Please remember that over time, choke collars damage the esophagus! [Note: Proper training techniques eliminate the need for choke collars.] Make certain that the clip is strong and sturdy and won’t break or open.

11. Get a seat belt. This is non-negotiable! It’s extremely tempting to say or think that we’ll hold our puppy. NO! It’s very simple to attach a seat belt strap to a dog’s harness and then to the seat belt in our back seat. Sudden stops, hard braking, or minor bumps throw our pups and seriously injure them while the humans are safely belted. No one can hold a pup in an accident. Please do not fool yourself or allow anyone to convince you otherwise. Too often, Police officers have witnessed an accident or incident where the humans are fine but the animal suffers great injury. Slamming against a seat can be fatal. Belting a pup only takes a moment. And…the pup can still sit in someone’s lap if that’s the issue. Additionally, air bags kill dogs of all sizes in the front seat.

12. Order identification tags or have the collar embroidered with your pup’s name and your cell phone number. The embroidered collar eliminates the possibility of tags getting ripped off and keeps your vital information on your pup. [Note: Talk to your veterinarian about having your pup chipped for permanent identification.]

13. Pick up your children’s toys and make a safe toy box. Puppies love to chew, and destroyed toys not only upset children (and parents) but pose real dangers for pups. Perforated bowels and blockages are life-threatening.

14. Purchase safe play and chew toys. Like our little children, puppies are inquisitive, adventurous, and investigative. Everything is fun, and they like to experience all types of sounds, places, textures, and shapes. Everything also goes into their mouths! Hard rubber toys of all sizes and shapes are wonderful. I suggest KONG and Yapple toys. The ones with a hole can be slathered with a small bit of wholesome peanut butter or cheese. Stuffed toys are a favorite of dogs BUT must be monitored very carefully. Let your pup play with them only when you can supervise them. Monitor to make sure that the stuffing can’t be ingested and cause intestinal blockages or irritations. Put these toys away when you are not with your pup. Safe items are available that simulate heartbeat and warmth and can be used during the transition away from littermates. The adjustment can be distressing, and these are reported to help in some situations. (I have another admission - I always allowed my pups to sleep with us at night. By tethering them to me, their movement alerts me, and I take them outside. I keep them tethered to me until I am sure they were potty trained.)

15. Think about housebreaking before your puppy comes home. Rules of thumb: 1) A puppy can only hold their bladder for the number of hours equally their age in months. A two-month-old puppy can only wait two hours at the most - it can be shorter. 2) Take your puppy out 10-20 minutes after eating.

    Next Blog - Part 2: Puppy Arrives Home

Guide to Training our Puppies - Hearing or Deaf Dogs

I am always extremely humbled and honored when an expert reaches out to me and offers great information to share with our readers. Helping each other creates a special relationship, a positive bond that I believe is so important to creating wonderful lives enjoying our friendships. And, sharing our experiences and thoughts about our precious dogs is just about the BEST!

I hope that you enjoy this article given to us to post. The information is pertinent for hearing and deaf dogs — dogs of all types, shapes, sizes, genders, and abilities. We only need to adapt according to our dogs needs. No need for “rocket science.”

Thank you, Sean Farrell, for reaching out and providing us with this wonderful information and guide.

We’ve all met dogs that aren’t the best behaved. They might jump. They might be rude to other people, such as small children. They might pull hard on a leash or eat food off of a table. Those dogs aren’t any fun to be around and even less fun to be part of your family. But a well-behaved dog? Well that’s something to behold — a dog that you can walk easily and snuggle with and introduce to people. But that well-trained dog starts not when it becomes an adult, but when that dog is a puppy. So understanding when you should start building your puppy’s repertoire of good skills is important.

The start date? It can be immediate. There are things that your puppy can do when it’s very small. What are those and how can you best help your puppy become a well-mannered adult? This graphic explains it.

Your New Puppy Training Guide: When to Tackle Each Skill

By Caroline Golon

Training is a critical part of your puppy’s growth and development. But when is the right time to start training? The short answer: It depends on the skill. Read on to get a better handle on timing training for your new pup.

Basic Commands

The first phase of training involves basic commands, because it is a foundation for every other type of training. Simple commands such as “sit,” “stay,” “lay down,” and “leave it” are important ways to keep your puppy safe and happy as they explore the world.

Training your pup simple obedience commands can begin as soon as they come home with you, typically around 7 to 8 weeks.  

Try to choose an area of your house with as few distractions as possible and keep training sessions to around 5 to 10 minutes, spread throughout the day. Puppies are notorious for short attention spans. Plus, they tire out quickly!

The key to successful puppy training is to make it a positive, fun activity. Do everything you can to maintain a happy, positive energy during each training session. (Though how can you not with a cute puppy bounding around the room?)

While there is no specific order in which to train basic commands, one of the best skills to teach first is “come” because it is a lifelong skill your puppy needs for obedience and safety.

“Sit” is another relatively easy command to teach your puppy, especially if you use rewards and lots of praise. “Lay down” is slightly more difficult to teach simply because puppies are full of energy! Similarly, “stay” can be a bit trickier with an energetic pup, but is another key element of your puppy’s basic training.

Suggestions for Deaf Dogs (from Connie Bombaci):

1) Use American Sign Language so not to reinvent the wheel and allow many others the ability to communicate with your special deaf dog.

2) Teach the sign for cookie first. Your deaf dog will realize that your hands are “saying” something yummy, and your deaf dog will watch you and your hands much more intently.

Potty Training

Potty training should begin as soon as you bring your new puppy home as well.

But remember, potty training your puppy requires time and patience.

It also requires a schedule. Take your pup out every two hours to start, increasing time as he or she gets older. You can even set a timer to keep everyone on track.

Most puppies get the concept of going outside within a few weeks but it’s important to remember that puppies have small bladders. They may not be able to hold it for very long. Puppies can be expected to hold their bladders for the number of hours that corresponds with their age in months. In other words, a five-month-old puppy should be able to hold it for around 5 hours. This is true up until about 9 months when any dog may have trouble holding for longer than 9 hours.

Crate Training

Crate training a puppy is an activity that helps with other aspects of your dog’s training and protects him or her (and your sofas and rugs!) when you aren’t around to supervise. Many dogs grow to love their crates as it represents a safe spot to sleep or get some private down time.  

You can begin crate training as soon as you bring your new puppy home, typically around 8 weeks. And because dogs instinctively don’t like to mess where they sleep (we don’t blame them!) they typically hold it while in the crate within a reasonable time frame. At some point their little bladders may not be able to hold it anymore, so be sure to take your puppy out every few hours.

Leash Training

Walking on a leash is not natural behavior for dogs. That’s why puppies often dart in different directions when they first have a leash on. The good news? Leash training your puppy at a young age will build good leash manners for a lifetime.

You can also start leash training as soon as you bring your new puppy home. Put his collar and harness on when he’s running around the house, playing, or being trained. When your puppy goes in his or her crate or is unsupervised, make sure to take off the leash and/or harness so they don’t get tangled.

Once your puppy is used to their harness and collar, it’s time to add the leash. Start by allowing your puppy to drag it around until he or she doesn’t seem to mind it. Then, you can take your pup on short walks around the house. Gradually move the walks to the yard and then, once your puppy has the hang of walking on the leash (i.e. he follows you) you can move on to short walks in the neighborhood. (Just make sure your puppy has the proper rounds of vaccinations before venturing out of the safety of your home.)

When to Teach Your Puppy Additional Skills

Similar to people, dogs are different when it comes to learning. Some dogs pick up training, commands, and tricks right away, while others take a little longer. Before you move on to more advanced skills such as “rollover,” “shake,” “leave it,” or “wait,” make sure you get the foundation down. And remember: Training never really ends. As a pet parent, it’s your job to keep up your training, continually practice known commands, and move on to advanced training as your dog grows.

Conclusion

Training is essential. It builds trust, helps you bond, and teaches critical skills to last a lifetime.