Halloween and Our Dogs - Our Deaf Dogs as well

Halloween is fast approaching and attention must be given to our precious pets. For me, that means that I must focus on what my deaf dog, Elsie, needs, wants, likes, and dislikes. Precautions need to be recognized for all our animals but especially those who are deaf or have other special needs.

First, Elsie is deaf and can’t hear treat-or-treaters approaching. I don’t want her to be startled even though she has been desensitized to sudden movements, appearances, or vibrations. I always sign for her to “look” as people arrive. I also pay attention in the event that other animals are walking the trail with their families.

She also loves to run after flashing lights in hopes of “catching” these beams in her teeth. Paying particular attention to these sudden bursts of light from the flashlights carried by our two-legged, costumed visitors is mandatory. She just might go chasing after the light, following them down a long driveway or road. Believe me, it would be a very funny sight watching me, arms waving hysterically above my head, trying to catch Elsie’s peripheral vision in order to beckon her to return.

The remainder of the article is from a blog that I posted last year. It warrants repeating. Please take good care of our deaf dogs, other pets, and visitors so no undesired events occur. Make it a fun evening - IF your neighborhood is still able to have Halloween amidst all the changes. These important guidelines apply to parties or other celebratory, candy-gathering times.

Clarence, my amazing service dog

Halloween is holiday that can be great fun for our trick-or-treaters but can be the source of stress for our pups.  And, keeping our pets safe is important and actually quite easy if we keep their needs in mind.  The ASPCA makes some simple recommendations for keeping them safe and happy. 

Number 1 on their list is the candy:
Candy is for the human trick-or-treaters and can be toxic to our pets. "Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for cats and dogs, and sugar-free candies containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can cause serious problems in pets. If you suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 immediately."  Candy wrappers are a threat as well, causing stomach upset and even deadly blockages.

Heidi (Beagle) and Judea (deaf Dalmatian) love greeting the visitors, but they have been desensitized to children wearing masks.

Number 2 is the decorations
Keep decorations out of reach.  While things like pumpkins, corn, glow sticks, etc. aren't big threats, they can cause severe stomach upset. 

Hogan (deaf Dalmatian) and India (Black Lab). Hogan wasn’t ready to tolerate anything but a scarf during his first Halloween. After lots of play and rewards, he eagerly looked forward to dressing up. India always loved a new costume.

Number 3 is costumes
I love to dress my pups up for most holidays BUT I watch closely for any indications that they don't like the costume.  We do not want to cause unnecessary stress.  Costumes should never cause risk or infringe on eyesight, breathing, movement, or being able to express themselves with a bark or meow.  Keep it simple.  I use a headband or just a holiday scarf for one of my pups.

Number 4 is safety
I always make sure that I have an identification collar or tag on my pups before the visitors of Halloween arrive.  I even have reflecting collars on them so they are more visible in the darkness.  If they do escape, they can be returned to me more easily.  One of my pups needs to be kept in a completely separate part of the house because the costumes are a bit too overwhelming.  NO STRESS!  NO WORRIES!  Our pups depend on us to provide safety, security, and well-being. 

If your dog has any potential to jump up, nip, or bite, PLEASE secure him or her in another room.  We must not only consider the safety of our visitors, but we don't want to encounter the slightest chance of losing our dog in a legal suit.

Remember

If you suspect that something is going to create an unsafe or stressful situation, please provide your wonderful and loving pet an alternative.  Remember, too, that our deaf dogs need extra security!

Hogan's Hope for a Safe Puppy Home - Part 1

I have had the wonderful life of working with and training dogs since I was nine years of age. My father brought home our first family pup who we named Victoria. Of course, we called her Vicky for short. She was a devoted pup from the get-go, and my father believed that a good dog was a well-mannered dog. To this end, he began her training as soon as she came into our home and taught me everything that he knew. And…he knew a great deal.

Vicky learned fast and easily because of her high level of intelligence and intense desire to please. She loved us with all her heart and dedicated herself to our protection. I could tell you several stories where she quite literally saved the day, but that’s for another time. Well, okay. So not to keep you hanging, she relentlessly dragged my mother by the arm out of the basement where Mama was doing the family laundry. There was an electrical fire that started in the wall on the first floor. If it weren’t for Vicky, my sister and I would have been trapped on the second floor. The firefighters gave Vicky all the credit for saving the family. This is only one of several times that our beautiful girl protected and saved her beloved family.

The days before bringing Vicky home were filled with excitement and preparations for our new, four-legged furry family member.

Part 1: Puppy Proofing the House

1. Secure cabinet doors so noses and paws can’t open them.

2. Relocate all dangerous items such as cleaning solutions and powders, sponges, hair products, onto higher, out-of-reach shelves.

3. Replace trash cans with tight-fitting lids. Garbage can be extremely dangerous with the bones, plastic wraps, aluminum foil, sharp edges created by chewing on plastic containers. Intestines can be perforated or blocked with life-threatening emergencies.

4. Place clothes hampers in strategic locations. All dirty socks, underwear, and odorous clothing must be kept completely out of reach. Puppies love us and any item that has a strong scent of us is appealing to them.

5. Designate a safe place for shoes. Shoes are a great chew toy for our puppies, especially since our feet smell delightful to them. Think about creating a safe, special shelf just inside the back door for shoes to be placed as soon as you come in the house. Remember to keep closet doors closed tightly.

6. Make a safe place for your puppy to sleep. Puppies need a bed of their own to sleep and feel secure. The bed and possibly a crate do not need to be overly large. It only needs to be large enough for your pup to stand and turn around. Purchase a crate that is the size needed when full-grown. Use dividers to make the interior smaller and gradually increase the area as your puppy grows. This gives the feeling of security, like a den. It also keeps your pup safe when you need to leave the house for limited amounts of time. He or she won’t be able to run throughout the house and get into trouble by chewing on wires, cushions, or other things. Since dogs don’t like going potty in their beds, it will help with housebreaking. Do remember to take your pup outside immediately upon arriving home and/or taking him or her out of the crate.

7. Designate a safe play area. Some folks like obtaining Xpens (exercise pens that are usually collapsible) that are like a playpen for toddlers. It keeps your puppy safe while you’re busy with things around the house. But don’t overly confine your puppy; our “children” are members of our families who want and need to be included and part of our ongoing activities.

8. Choose a high-quality food. Quality and price are not necessarily in the same equation. Talk with your veterinarian and select the highest quality that you are able to afford. Remember to never underfeed your growing puppy, and feed him or her at least three (3) times a day. Feed until satisfied. I also recommend that food not be left down so they can graze. You want your pup to be happy and healthy as well as eager to receive a reward during training.

9. Obtain food and water bowls that are non-slip, stainless steel or lead-free stoneware or ceramic. Bowls need to be easily cleaned as well as sanitized! Wash food bowls thoroughly after every meal to eliminate bacteria, and wash water bowls and fill with fresh water often.

10. Buy durable and appropriate collar, harness, and leash. Different sized dogs need different collars and/or harnesses. For instance, a very small dog is better outfitted with a harness for attaching a leash than a collar. A collar can also be used but function more as decorative attire and for ID tags. Harnesses with a back clip used on larger dogs tend to promote pulling, but no-pull harnesses are now available that are working wonderfully. If you use a collar, I recommend a Martingale collar. It tightens enough so your pup can’t back out of the collar which is a great and very important safety feature. Yet, it doesn’t choke. Please remember that over time, choke collars damage the esophagus! [Note: Proper training techniques eliminate the need for choke collars.] Make certain that the clip is strong and sturdy and won’t break or open.

11. Get a seat belt. This is non-negotiable! It’s extremely tempting to say or think that we’ll hold our puppy. NO! It’s very simple to attach a seat belt strap to a dog’s harness and then to the seat belt in our back seat. Sudden stops, hard braking, or minor bumps throw our pups and seriously injure them while the humans are safely belted. No one can hold a pup in an accident. Please do not fool yourself or allow anyone to convince you otherwise. Too often, Police officers have witnessed an accident or incident where the humans are fine but the animal suffers great injury. Slamming against a seat can be fatal. Belting a pup only takes a moment. And…the pup can still sit in someone’s lap if that’s the issue. Additionally, air bags kill dogs of all sizes in the front seat.

12. Order identification tags or have the collar embroidered with your pup’s name and your cell phone number. The embroidered collar eliminates the possibility of tags getting ripped off and keeps your vital information on your pup. [Note: Talk to your veterinarian about having your pup chipped for permanent identification.]

13. Pick up your children’s toys and make a safe toy box. Puppies love to chew, and destroyed toys not only upset children (and parents) but pose real dangers for pups. Perforated bowels and blockages are life-threatening.

14. Purchase safe play and chew toys. Like our little children, puppies are inquisitive, adventurous, and investigative. Everything is fun, and they like to experience all types of sounds, places, textures, and shapes. Everything also goes into their mouths! Hard rubber toys of all sizes and shapes are wonderful. I suggest KONG and Yapple toys. The ones with a hole can be slathered with a small bit of wholesome peanut butter or cheese. Stuffed toys are a favorite of dogs BUT must be monitored very carefully. Let your pup play with them only when you can supervise them. Monitor to make sure that the stuffing can’t be ingested and cause intestinal blockages or irritations. Put these toys away when you are not with your pup. Safe items are available that simulate heartbeat and warmth and can be used during the transition away from littermates. The adjustment can be distressing, and these are reported to help in some situations. (I have another admission - I always allowed my pups to sleep with us at night. By tethering them to me, their movement alerts me, and I take them outside. I keep them tethered to me until I am sure they were potty trained.)

15. Think about housebreaking before your puppy comes home. Rules of thumb: 1) A puppy can only hold their bladder for the number of hours equally their age in months. A two-month-old puppy can only wait two hours at the most - it can be shorter. 2) Take your puppy out 10-20 minutes after eating.

    Next Blog - Part 2: Puppy Arrives Home